CategoriesTips, Expeditions, Pico de Orizaba by

Many times our clients ask us which side of Pico de Orizaba is more convenient for them, the north or the south.

These are the advantages and disadvantages of each option:

Advantages of the south face of Citlaltépetl:

  1. 400 meters less elevation gain than the north face
  2. much faster descent (three hours compared to five)
  3. less hours of duration (ten versus thirteen on average)
  4. less loaded backpack (you don't need neither harness nor ice axe, and you carry less water)
  5. quieter base camp
  6. you can climb the Sierra Negra (4,580m) to acclimatize the day before the summit

On the south face we camp in the Valle del Encuentro (4,000m), where the annual Mexican Mountaineers' Gathering is held. The night of the summit we ascend in a 4x4 vehicle to the parking lot at 4,600 meters, and from that point we start.

 

Advantages of the north face of Citlaltépetl:

  1. more beautiful alpine scenery
  2. possibility of ascending a glacier
  3. experience of walking in a roped team

On the south face we camped near the Piedra Grande refuge (4,200 meters), and from that point we left for the summit night.

To sum up:

  • If your goal is to secure the summit, or you have not been able to train and acclimatize sufficiently, and if walking on snow is not important to you, the south face is your option.
  • If you want an extreme physical challenge, to enjoy alpine landscapes and to have the experience of walking on a glacier with a rope, the north face is for you.